For Crans-Montana, the cycling hotspot in Switzerland's Valais/Wallis region, we have been producing great articles for several years. More and more, we find out what the advantages of this destination at over 1,400 metres altitude are. It will not surprise you that Crans-Montana is the place where you as a col chaser will be in your element. Especially if you are also preparing for a GranFondo or Cyclosportive, Crans-Montana has more altimeters to climb than anywhere else. Every time we are surprised again and every time we say to each other: could it be better? This time we were blessed again, with beautiful climbing kilometres, new mountain lakes and a fresh rain shower. Crans-Montana? Absolutely.
It is June when we are invited to stay and cycle in Crans-Montana for three nights. The weather looks good. On arrival, it is a little cloudy, but the temperature is nice. Short-short attire and plenty of sunshine ahead. On the programme at least two new climbs. Across the valley we head towards Thyon 2000 a well-known winter sports resort, but also a climb that is challenging. In addition, we (Paulien and I) got the tip to check out Lac de Derborence. The lake is completely hidden behind the mountains. The first photos look stunning.
On arrival at Alaïa Lodge, our now regular stay in Crans-Montana, I am well received. I have a spacious room on the third floor. Little balcony, enough room for all my junk and my bike can be neatly stored in the bike room at reception. Safe, and with that it's Switzerland. Your bike is just a bit safer there than in any other country in Europe.
Sanetsch encore
On arrival, I have some time to spare for a first ride. My first introduction to Valais once led me to the Col du Sanetsch. According to many, the region's best-kept secret. I decide to do the climb again. From Crans-Montana, you first descend towards Lens and Icogne before starting the climb via Saviese. It is a long killer, that Sanetsch, but one thing is for sure: it is well worth the suffering. During my climb, the weather is perfect. No quivering sun, but a cloud cover accompanying me. At the bottom, I soon notice the signs that the region has placed at many cols. If you were to do it all the way from Sion, it's 27 kilometres. I pick up from Savièse and so it is 'only' 22km of climbing.
Swiss blockhaus
According to CyclingCols, it is similar to the Blockhaus in Italy and quite early in the climb you also get the toughest part. One kilometre long at 10.9% average with an outlier to 13%. It's not an easy warmup with this monster. During my ride, I meet some other fellow riders. Everyone is enjoying themselves, but in their own way. The guys on the MTBs I overtake are running a coffee grinder. The lady I meet is picking up a fine rhythm. I myself am stumbling a bit. Oh well, who cares. At the top, I park the bike against the sign and take a photo. The views here are less spectacular, but on the way back, the winding road offers me beautiful panoramas and views over the valley. Sanetsch encore, mais oui! 87 kilometres and 2750 altimeters. Go figure. The pasta at Viva Voce, it goes down like a train.
Rainy Thyon 2000
On day two, Paulien being there, we head towards Thyon. Paulien is in full preparation for the 'AlpenBrevet' GranFondo. Her coach 'demanded' 3,000 altimeters per day. Take it. I had already put on 2750, so as far as I was concerned 'no problemo'. The ride to Thyon is one in two parts. Because first it's a fast descent towards the valley. Then you have to cover a stretch of flat before starting the route towards Hérémence. This is also the start of the climb to Lac des Dix. Once in Vex, you turn right at the Thyon sign. And then the fun begins. It is more than 20 kilometres of climbing and almost 1600 altimeters. Quite a climb, then, with peaks towards 15% in the middle of the climb.
We set off from Crans-Montana with the sun in the sky. It is weather for shorts and shirts, but we are also looking a bit ahead. The forecast says we will get rain, sometime on our ride. It will be short, maybe heavy but no problem, according to those in the know. We will see. The first part goes quite easily. Down the mountain and towards the valley. As the sun shines on us, we seem briefly overdressed. The turn towards the climb is a bit busy with traffic, but we get through it well. The first part of the climb is really warming up. Literally. Jackets come off and we turn a good rhythm with pace. Once at Vex, we turn through the small village and on through the woods. Above us, the sky starts to close in and we are now counting on the announced rain shower.
Massive shower in the mountains
And it hits hard & relentless. We are almost at the top of the ski village when it starts to drip. First we put on a jacket on our bikes under a little bridge, then ride the last kilometre uphill. At the village, it is deserted and quiet. Everything is closed; the ski season doesn't start again until autumn. Meanwhile, it starts to rain harder. The sky has changed completely and we watch it for a while at first. After 5 to 10 minutes, it becomes clear that this is a case of: take one for the team and move on. We tuck in our shirts and put on all clothes, but in hindsight we set out with too little. The tough uphill climb now translates into a cold and soaking wet descent. Disc brakes or no disc brakes, it is cautious through the curves and especially shivering on the bike. From the cold, that is. We anxiously search for a mountain hut or restaurant that is open.
Relief in Vex
Finally, in Vex, we find the relief we are looking for. At Relays des Mayens de Sion, an American-style restaurant, we duck inside. The diners look at us, startled. Everything is wet. The motto is simple: undress, (down to undershirt) and make sure your body can warm up quickly. Wet clothing drains energy from your body and if so you'd better go straight to bed. The owners are loving and when we leave after a hearty lunch, we are both given some newspapers to put under our shirts. That helps just that little bit extra. Once on the bike, it still drizzles a bit and the cold strikes again, but when we can pedal down the hill in the valley, the cold disappears and so does the rain. Welcome to the mountains of Valais/Wallis
Crans Montana for dessert
One thing is for sure: starting down is finishing up. If you do train for a Granfondo or are a climbing geek, Crans-Montana is perfect for that. You can do the entire climb to the Col de Crans-Montana do, or you just catch the climb to the village. It saves a few hundred altitude metres. You can start the climb to Crans-Montana in several ways. The best is through the vineyards, but for that you have to start all the way east in Sierre. There is nothing left for us but to take the main road up. A little less idyllic, but painful enough for the legs (and perfect for training). At the top, it's a quick shower and warm clothes on. Although the climb warms us up well, Thyon 2000 chops it up well. What's hot: with 80 kilometres and 2700 altimeters, it was a day to frame.
Lac de Derborence
We like to say we know where to go for cycling. But that we are not omniscient, it turns out. This is our fourth year in a row in Crans-Montana and in eedere instances Lac de Derborence had not come up as a cool climb. That might be true. It is a bit further west, west of Sion actually. A trip there and back is more than 80 kilometres with 2500+ altimeters. But that this climb is worth it? That may be obvious. Again, we unpack with a descent that leads into the fields via Icogne. We skip the Sanetsch pass, but ride along below. The weather is great, with a clear blue sky and bright sunshine. Where did yesterday's rain go?
Once at the bottom of the climb, there is some gulping. Right from the start we get double digits to deal with. From Pont-de-la-Morge, it's a bit of stumbling and raking. At least, that's my style. Paulien has grabbed her coffee grinder and paddles along at a brisk pace. Once past this first painful point, the beauty of the climb begins.
Up through a gorge
You drive through a sort of gorge towards the top. Nowhere on this road it is really steep. You just follow the rock wall on your right hand side. Just watch out for falling rocks and stones. With a few more kilometres to the summit, the landscape suddenly changes. Those who have been to Yosemite National Park will immediately understand what I am trying to describe. Conifers, a small lake, a meadow filled landscape through which the road winds. It is special and beautiful. At the end, you have to walk a few hundred metres along a dirt track towards the lake. And then: enjoy. You are surrounded by rocky mountain peaks. It is quiet because there's hardly any cars and you are there with fellow mountain enthusiasts, climbing goats and other adventurers. The coffee and cake at the summit? Do it right away. And on the way down, camera at hand and shoot away. The pictures: priceless.
Overnight stays in Crans-Montana
In recent years, we have been to Crans-Montana several times. Our go-to is almost always the Alaïa Lodge, in the middle of Crans, which is just higher/western than Montana, the two parts that make up Crans-Montana. It is perfectly located in relation to all the shops and restaurants, it's about a 20-minute walk to the funicular and you can also get away from here well by public transport and car.
Spacious hotel
The hotel is very spacious, with a large breakfast room, some other rooms for working or relaxing, a bike room and a restaurant that opens in season. During our stays, the in-house restaurant was often closed, so we were able to go to Viva Voce, the Italian restaurant below the hotel. You get 10% discount as a hotel guest, as the owners are one and the same.
Want to know more about this hotel? Visit than in this article. Other hotels and tips can be found in this map.
Travel tips
For this trip, I would have preferred to travel entirely by train. This is also possible in principle, if you take the ICE to Basel, for example, then change trains towards Bern and continue towards Visp and Crans-Montana. The train ride from Utrecht is 12 hours in total, with four changes. The night train takes a little longer, but then you'll have slept right in. It's 18:00 departure and by 10:00 you'll be in Sion (the funicular up goes every 15-20′)
This time, due to short preparation and simply budget, it became a fly-train combination. From Geneva, the train goes in one dash to Sierre and from there you can take the funicular up in no time. It stops in the middle of the village and our hotel was another 20′ walk or a short bus ride away. Flying is of course possible to Geneva and to Zurich.
By car, you will also spend almost 12 hours on the road, including stops/loading/fuelling and resting.
Routes in Crans-Montana
These are the routes we rode during our adventure in Crans-Montana in 2025
